50 miles on the Appalachian Trail

As part of my 50^th birthday year celebration, I wanted to hike 50 miles of the Appalachian Trail. Now, I love hiking. But…I’ve never hiked with a backpack and camped, for even an overnight!  Instead, I just decided to head out and hike 4 days and 3 nights to cover the 50 miles.  And, I had two awesome trail mates agree to join me.   

Now, don’t get me wrong. I did my share of research prior to going. I talked to many who have gone before me on the trail. I researched lots of different gear and got fitted for a pack. Then, I started to hike a few miles with the pack. 

I was so excited that Mary and Anna were both on board to join me. We really had no idea what we were in for. But, we were ready and excited for whatever it would be!

There was a lot of chatter and texts between the three of us in the week leading up to the start. What are the clothes your packing?  How much food are you taking? Do you have the right kind of socks? Did you try putting up your tent? Does your self-inflating pad work correctly? Do you have trekking poles? What are you wearing to start the hike?

The day came…we were as ready as we were going to be. Early Friday morning on April 29, our awesome friend and driver, Lisa, picked us up to get us to the start.  It was a crisp, clear morning.  We hit the trail around 8:30 a.m. from Pen Mar Park in Maryland.

Crossing the PA/MD line early in our hike.

 

We hiked 8.5 miles prior to stopping for lunch. We did take a few breaks on the way for some snacks. Our lunch stop was at Tumbling Run Shelter. We saw a few other hikers throughout the day. The usual questions were asking your name(s) and how far you were going. We definitely got some looks when we said we would be attempting 14-mile days. Many don’t hike that many miles in a day. But, we had to do what we could each day because we had to finish the 50 miles on Monday.

Before my hike, I was told to "pet some moss," "smell the flowers," and "hug a tree." You'll see those completed on my hike. :) 

 

After our lunch stop at Tumbling Run, we had about a 1.5 mile climb up the mountain, covering 900 feet of elevation!  It was tough!  People had asked me before we left if the terrain would be tough.  Honestly, I didn’t focus on that ahead of time at all. There would be nothing I could do about the terrain any way, other than just tackle what was in front of me. So, that’s what we did!

We saw lots of beautiful butterflies on the trail that day. Also saw an owl. We didn’t see any other wildlife. A bit on the topic of names…those who hike the trail have trail names. The three of us were hoping we would get our trail names during our weekend hike. The name isn’t something you choose. It is chosen for you. I’m happy to report, that all three of us came off the trail with trail names. My trail name is Butterfly Jane and was given first. Our first day was a gorgeous, sunny day and as seems to happen with me, butterflies began appearing on the trail, guiding our way. God always gives me butterflies. For those of you who don’t know the story of me and butterflies, you can ask me sometime; but it is tied to my amazing, sweet Mother and God’s blessings to me. 

Anna’s trail name is Skipper. She has a thing for rocks and skipping rocks. She was also always helping me and Mary. On the third day, Mary got her name—Poppins. She is very meticulous and was always “poppin” things in and out of her bag. And, she also likes Mary Poppins. All of the names felt right.

We finished the first day with 15.1 miles, ending at the Rocky Mountain shelter. As we came in towards the shelter, we met another couple who we ended up “leap-frogging” the entire weekend. Her name was “Tipoff” and his name was Keith. He didn’t have a trail name yet. They were hiking a section for a week.

We set up camp for our first night and headed down the mountain to the spring for our water. I ended up with a large blister on my one heel that day. I had definitely worn broken-in trail shoes and socks.  I don’t know what caused the issues I had with my feet (which ended up being the entire weekend), but I had to do what I could to keep moving on.

 

Friday night dinner for me was lasagna. I was so thankful that I brought some tea bags so I could top off my meal with a cup of hot tea before bed. Once it started getting dark, we each climbed into our tents for the night. I was comfy and warm in my 32-degree cold gear clothing and an amazing down sleeping bag (shout out to Austin for offering the sleeping bag to use!). 

 

 

As the sun came up, we began stirring. I made oatmeal for breakfast and had another cup of tea. We packed up camp and headed out around 8:30 to start our trek for the day. 

Now, I was told by many that Pennsylvania is known as “Rocksylvania.” I knew this. I had heard this. But, until you’re on it, you don’t really believe it.  It. Was. Rocky. And, we had to climb. I saw lots of mini purple butterflies all day and saw a yellow and black monarch butterfly just when I needed it most.

 

 

We hit Caledonia State Park for a snack and water break. 

  

We took a lunch break at Quarry Gap shelter. This was a beautiful shelter! Hanging flower baskets, a swing, and a nearby spring for water. This is definitely one of the most maintained shelters we saw. It came after a beautiful hike through canopy-like greens, which in a few more weeks would be gorgeous rhododendron.

    

 

Throughout the day as we hiked, my feet and IT bands were screaming. I was hurtin’ but kept pushing forward. It’s amazing what our bodies are really capable of. I know I can do hard things. I know I can overcome things. So, I pressed on.  

 

With about 2.75 miles to finish for that day, we took a break by a stream. I took my shoes off and gave my feet a good soak in the cool stream.  I had my own little “bubbling brook spa.” What a gift.  

 

After resting a bit, we finished off the hike for the day, ending at Birch Run shelter. We ended up with 13.1 miles for day two. 

After setting up camp, I soaked my feet again in the stream, and then dipped my head in the stream too. It was refreshing and invigorating.  Our camp was set up right by the water. It was awesome.  

We enjoyed our dinner and chatting with other hikers.  Tipoff and her husband landed there for the night. There may have been 6-7 other through hikers staying in the shelter that night too. One of the guys we met was from York, PA, and had done the Hyner Trail Challenge (which Mary and I had done a few years ago).  He shared some tips and tricks from his hiking experiences and also told us a bit about what was ahead for us on the trail.  

When we told him that we were hiking in to Boiling Springs, he mentioned that there were three tough climbs there at the end. I literally wanted to cry. Honestly, our entire hike was mapped out and it was 57 miles, only because I didn’t know how to cut it shorter or to get picked up.  I really only wanted the 50 miles (for my birthday).  After hearing a bit more of what would be ahead for us, I took another look at the map and started strategizing.  Turns out, there was a gravel road at exactly the 50 mile mark! Anna had planned to finish her hike on Sunday (the next day) at Pine Grove Furnace State Park. So, I made plans to talk with Jonathan the next day when he picked up Anna and see if he knew where this gravel road was.

That night, I fell asleep in my cozy sleeping bag and tent, listening to the sounds of the flowing water nearby.

Sunday morning, again, we woke up with the sun and decided to have breakfast in our tent. I went with scrambled eggs this time—the dehydrated kind. Not really a fan. I think I’ll stick to oatmeal in the future.

 

 We packed up and headed out for day three. It was about a 9-mile hike to Pine Grove Furnace State Park where Anna was getting picked up. The morning hike was pretty and didn’t have too many climbs. We reached the halfway point on the trail too!  Around that time, we met up with Tipoff and her husband again. We said we had a name for him – “Smiley.” He was always smiling! And, he was so kind. Apparently, someone else had mentioned that name to him too, so he felt like it was confirmation that it was to be. They were finishing up their week-long hike at Pine Grove Furnace State Park, so we didn’t see them again on the trail.

   

We stopped for a quick snack and noticed a huge black snake!  As we continued on, it started to rain. We had to break out our rain gear and press on.

  

 

 When we made it to Pine Grove Furnace State park, we treated ourselves to some ice cream. There is a “half gallon challenge” for through-hikers to eat an entire half gallon of ice cream at this point in the hike. We just went with a couple of scoops. When Jonathan arrived, we took a closer look at the map and realized that the gravel road was not far from their farm!  What. A. Blessing.  We made plans to be picked up at that spot the next day, on Monday, when we would hit the 50 mile mark.

 

After unloading some extra, unnecessary things from our packs, and leaving it with Jonathan and Anna, me and Mary continued on, in the rain. We had close to another 8 miles to go to our stop for the night.  It rained for the entire afternoon trek. It actually wasn’t bad, though. It was some of the prettiest sections of the hike we had done so far, and the rain and mist just added to the beauty of it.

  

 

Our plan was to have a total of 17.1 miles for Sunday. However, we missed the sign for the turn to the Tagg Run shelter and had to backtrack. We ended up with an 18.75 mile day. Needless to say, I was very happy when we got to the shelter, tired and hungry. We grabbed a snack, while chatting with a couple of other hikers (Velma and Hatchet) before we set up camp. We were blessed that the rain stopped as we arrived, so we didn’t have to set up camp in the rain.

 

After going DOWN the mountain to get water and then UP the mountain for the privy, we settled in for dinner. Chicken teriyaki for me. Spaghetti for Mary. We had some fun conversation which led to some deep, gut-wrenching, belly-hurtin’ laughs. Best times.

Our final night in the tent brought on a thunderstorm in the middle of the night. It rained a few hours, but we both stayed protected and dry.

We took a slow start on Monday morning, because we could. Since we were getting picked up at the 50-mile mark, on that awesome gravel road, we only had 4.6 miles to hike to complete the trek!  After breakfast, we moved out around 9:00 to finish our journey.

  

 

When our GPS hit 4.6 miles, we paused to celebrate and take a photo to commemorate the 50 mile mark. What an accomplishment!  

 

We kept hiking, hoping that the gravel road would soon appear, and there it was!  At exactly the 5 mile mark for the day, we hit the road and celebrated again. Anna and Erica were on the way, so we just sat down to wait for them. 

As we waited, we listened to the song “Gratitude” by Brandon Lake. It was fitting. Our hearts were full of gratitude.  Now we just needed to fill our bellies.  And we did.

 

Once we got to my car in Boiling Springs, we decided to head to T.J. Rockwells for some Rhino fries and burgers. Man, did they hit the spot!

Some random thoughts about my experience:

•  Starting pack weight:  32 lbs.
• Trekking poles are the bomb! I had no idea how useful or helpful they would be.
• Hot meals to start and end the day were spot on.
• Bringing tea bags was a win!
• I was amazed at how my body “rebounded” every day. At the end of each day, I was TIRED. And, had pretty sore feet and IT bands. When I laid down to sleep at night, I wondered how I would take another step the next day. But, when I got up, I was ready to go.  Yes, I was sore. But, nothing unbearable. Seriously, our bodies are amazing.
• I can press through and overcome anything.
• I am strong.
• Ending pack weight:  23 lbs.

While I’ve given you sort of a “play-by-play” of our journey, what I didn’t get into was the emotions and thoughts that went through my head during my trek.  Honestly, I was enthralled with the beauty in everything. The sun shining through the trees. The bright greens of spring popping out everywhere. The sounds of the rippling streams. The tiny purple violets along the path and among the rocks. The butterflies. Even the beauty in the rocks. The silence of the woods is a beautiful thing. There were times I felt like I was walking through a mystical forest. Other times, through open fields. Always up and down mountains.

I felt the presence of Jesus with me the entire time, too. Something about nature draws me to Him. He restored my soul. 

My heart was truly full of gratitude during the entire experience, even when I was in pain. I am so grateful that I have the health and strength to move. I am grateful for the breath in my lungs. I am thankful for a husband who supported me in doing this. I am truly one blessed girl. 

And, all three of us are hooked. We will be back on the AT again.